For weeks I had puzzled over the photo on the cover of my Michelin map of south Portugal. Where on Earth was that lovely place? I strolled through the narrow streets of the town, drinking it all in, and discovered it was Mértola.
The photo shows the winding Guadiana river and to the right of it a little whitewashed tower with an outside staircase and a row of picturesque houses with orange roofs, street lamps and balconies. I walked down that street and didn’t immediately make the connection, but later it all clicked.